Watch the men's Fall/Winter 2020 - 2021
After graduating from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in the late 80s, Ann Demeulemeester became known as part of the Antwerp Six, a group of radical new designers famous for their forward-thinking style. Demeulemeester released her eponymous label in 1996 with an avant-garde menswear collection, earning immediate recognition for her unconventional, deconstructivist designs. Her streamlined silhouettes and elongated cuts call to mind a sensual, emotive aesthetic that draws influence from Gothic, punk and Japanese culture. Now under the creative direction of Sebastien Meunier after Demeulemeester's departure in 2013, the brand continues to refine her darkly poetic vision.
British designer Paul Smith and German artist Christoph Niemann bring to life a cheeky capsule collection reflective of daily life in New York City. Niemann, whose work regularly appears in The New Yorker, The New York Times Magazine, and National Geographic, is a self-described ‘visual storyteller’ best known for his witty abstracted illustrations. Over the years Smith too has established himself as a distinctive voice in menswear recognized for his irreverent yet clever designs -- uniting high-end English tailoring with striking colors and offbeat patterns.
With this capsule collection, classic Paul Smith silhouettes become blank canvases for Niemann’s playful depictions. Casual basics are given an unexpected twist: bright-colored sweatshirts, hoodies, t-shirts, totes, and wallets are emblazoned with Niemann’s quirky black and white graphics. Intended as light-hearted and fun, this collaborative project is a perceptive and astute meditation on the hilarious yet thought-provoking banalities of everyday life.
Belgian designer Raf Simons launched his namesake men’s collection in 1995, after switching from an industrial design course to fashion at Antwerp’s Royal Academy. Immersed in the counterculture of early 90s Antwerp, Simons captured the energy of the city’s fashion underground in pioneering collections inspired by music and the rebellious energy of youth culture. Athletic influences, minimalism, and deconstruction join futuristic prints and color schemes in his relentlessly modern blends of men’s tailoring and streetwear.
Pop art-influenced graphics, collaged photo prints, and high-tech sneakers designed in a recurring collaboration with adidas complement parkas, bomber jackets, graphic tees and button-downs, slim trousers, and casual knits in Simons’ masterful synthesis of nostalgic inspirations and futuristic outlook.
With a long-lasting career spanning over three decades, Belgian designer Dries Van Noten has garnered recognition as one of the most progressive purveyors of eclectic style and craftsmanship. Known and celebrated for transcending luxury fashion conventions with a serenely subversive aesthetic and cerebral design sensibility, the accomplished third-generation tailor and member of the legendary Antwerp Six collective delivers a design-centered men’s ready-to-wear offering that focuses on soft yet precise tailoring, studied colors, and bold patterns. Rendered in premium custom-milled textiles and executed in perfected cuts and silhouettes, streamlined jackets, long cotton drill coats, boiler suits, and denim trousers take cues from traditional workwear.
Quintessential casualwear staples including boxy button-up shirts, knit polos, basic crewnecks, and swim shorts all lend themselves to easy yet sophisticated layering. Early-70's psychedelic and digitally-enhanced prints featuring vivid hues and undulating patterns serve as an optimistic visual counterbalance. Known for marrying the worlds of art and contemporary fashion, Van Noten’s collections often feature the works of illustrious fine artists of the past and present.
Homme Plissé Issey Miyake brings a new aesthetic concept to menswear, blending visionary technology with stylistic innovation. The starting point of the diffusion line is Issey Miyake’s signature garment pleating technique, with sewn details added post-process to generate new architectural structures and ornamental flourishes. Anchored by three conceptual commitments: pleats, product, and present, Homme Plissé pieces intrigue and inspire, merging form and function in elevated union. Wrinkle-resistant, quick-drying lightweight fabrics ensure active, dynamic results, with pieces cutting complex-yet-organic forms. Imbued with a sense of flexible modernity and gender-transcending grace, tops, jackets, trousers, and accessories compliment the wearer while generating new possibilities.
Men and Style: Essays, Interviews and Considerations
By David Coggins
Men and Style reaches beyond standard “what to wear” advice: It is equal parts style guide and intriguing conversation about the masculine identity within the world of fashion. David Coggins explores the history of men’s style and learns from some of the most notable taste makers in the industry and beyond. Its essays and interviews discuss the lessons men learned from their fathers, the mistakes they made as young men, and how they emerged to become better men. Some of the most dapper men in the world discuss bad mustaches, misguided cologne choices, and unfortunate prom tuxedos. All the men here have arrived at a place in the world and have a keen understanding about how they fit in it.
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