New York-based designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez founded Proenza Schouler in 2002 fresh out of Parson's School of Design. The pair's co-designed senior thesis collection was an instant hit, and the hype is real: in 2007, Proenza Schouler won the CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year Award. Proenza Schouler accessories like the PS1 satchel and the PS2 crossbody are perennial must-have It bags, exquisite Italian craftsmanship infused with downtown cool in myriad signature colors. Asymmetric tops, modified mini dresses, and meticulously styled shoes all update classic timeless silhouettes with laser-cut detail, futuristic minimalism, and high-contrast colorblocking.
Originally by Angel Holthus and can be found here: nosax.me/2wuB0uC
The term v-waist refers to a style of waistband applied to pants, skirts, shorts, dresses, underwear, and other various types of clothing. High point of the garment is at the natural waist level on the right and left sides of the hip; the low point is located in the center of the abdomen, leaving a "V" shape at the front of the waist. The angle of the "V" shape varies depending on the use of the garment and the desired level of dramatic effect. It is typically a design used in female clothing, but can also be seen in certain types of pants for men.
Also known as the basque waist, the v-waist style is used in a variety of fashions and functions of clothing. It is a popular design for exercise wear, performance outfits, detailing on dresses, and mini shorts. The v-waist style is often used in clothing that is intended to accentuate a healthy figure. It is a flattering style of waist band because it visually elongates the torso and emphasizes a slimmer shape.
The v-waist design has been utilized by western culture for centuries, but has become increasingly popular throughout modern fashion trends. It is used in a wide range of markets, including high-end couture, as well as affordable exercise wear. With the wide-spread emphasis on physical activity in many cultures, this specific shape has become a common style in exercise clothing. Also, many formal dress designs incorporate the basque style into the detailing of the waist. It is a subtle way to create a slimming effect and enhance the shape of several different body types.
Another common application for the v-waist design is in dance-wear. It creates a fashionable detail, allows for greater mobility, and provides an attractive design for performances. Many cheerleaders, dancers, and other performers use the v-waist style in their outfits. It is almost exclusively used with tighter clothing in order to provide the desired aesthetic effect.
Although the v-waist is a style intended to create a slimming silhouette, it is typically not used for trying to cover any overweight problem areas. Many other fashion styles do a good job of concealing parts of the body that commonly cause self-consciousness. The v-waist style, however, is mainly used for different applications and is best at accentuating a healthy figure.
Belgian designer Raf Simons launched his namesake men’s collection in 1995, after switching from an industrial design course to fashion at Antwerp’s Royal Academy. Immersed in the counterculture of early 90s Antwerp, Simons captured the energy of the city’s fashion underground in pioneering collections inspired by music and the rebellious energy of youth culture. Athletic influences, minimalism, and deconstruction join futuristic prints and color schemes in his relentlessly modern blends of men’s tailoring and streetwear.
Pop art-influenced graphics, collaged photo prints, and high-tech sneakers designed in a recurring collaboration with adidas complement parkas, bomber jackets, graphic tees and button-downs, slim trousers, and casual knits in Simons’ masterful synthesis of nostalgic inspirations and futuristic outlook.
With a long-lasting career spanning over three decades, Belgian designer Dries Van Noten has garnered recognition as one of the most progressive purveyors of eclectic style and craftsmanship. Known and celebrated for transcending luxury fashion conventions with a serenely subversive aesthetic and cerebral design sensibility, the accomplished third-generation tailor and member of the legendary Antwerp Six collective delivers a design-centered men’s ready-to-wear offering that focuses on soft yet precise tailoring, studied colors, and bold patterns. Rendered in premium custom-milled textiles and executed in perfected cuts and silhouettes, streamlined jackets, long cotton drill coats, boiler suits, and denim trousers take cues from traditional workwear.
Quintessential casualwear staples including boxy button-up shirts, knit polos, basic crewnecks, and swim shorts all lend themselves to easy yet sophisticated layering. Early-70's psychedelic and digitally-enhanced prints featuring vivid hues and undulating patterns serve as an optimistic visual counterbalance. Known for marrying the worlds of art and contemporary fashion, Van Noten’s collections often feature the works of illustrious fine artists of the past and present.
Stay sleek and protected year round with tech accessories boasting details both playful and sophisticated. Curate a collection of iPhone cases to complement any whim—from molded silicon to embossed leather and rigid resin, our selection of hardware simultaneously facilitates function, protection, and an extension of personal style. Further extend and customize with permanent leather adhesives, or collect one phone case of every color. Muted pastels complement inky jewel tones, while delicate florals segue into iconic graphics. Matte or glossy, hard or soft, patinaed or raw, synthetic or organic, our women’s tech accessories tread the line between eccentric and irreverent, enabling uninhibited expressions of style.
The Kanye Co-Signed Label Is Building a Wardrobe of Wild Cards
Watch any home tour with a high profile designer and expect to find lavish rugs, coffee table art books, and mid-century modern credenzas. 27-year-old Maisie Schloss' pink Los Feliz apartment (which doubles as a studio for her newly-established womenswear label, Maisie Wilen), is unusually magical: a fashion funhouse packed with stretchy contortionist-like uniforms and circus animal figurines. Space Jam paraphernalia, ceramic swans, and baby-sized Yeezy Boosts coexist in perfect harmony. The atmosphere is a reflection of the Chicago-born designer's ethos: “One thing I struggle with when I get dressed is feeling like there’s this dichotomy between looks that are more pretty or flattering, and looks that are cool,” Schloss says. “I like to hit both of those worlds with my clothes.”
Today, Schloss is wearing a vintage blue 70s dress with puffy sleeves, multi-colored chunky sneakers, and a butterfly hair clip tucked into her long, beachy hair. Her two cats, Tina and Zoe (who appear in portraits both pinned to her wall and tattooed on her arm), join us in the living room, where Tina is showing off a custom, bright yellow Maisie Wilen neck scarf. Zoe helps herself to a drink of my water and Schloss giggles sheepishly, offering a fresh glass along with a slew of apologies. Her loud, over-the-top aesthetics contradict her shy demeanour and quiet creative process—she prefers to work in silence while the rest of the city sleeps.
Maisie Schloss, the designer behind the euphoric L.A.-based label, Maisie Wilen, is the first recipient of Kanye West’s Incubator grant for emerging designers. The Chicago native, who holds a degree from New York’s Parsons School of Design, spent three years working as womenswear designer for West’s coveted brand Yeezy, refining her craft, before launching her own line in 2019. Maisie Wilen’s singular aesthetic, one which has garnered industry-wide attention for its playful mix of sportswear with 90s-inspired eveningwear, has quickly established itself as a Kardashian-Jenner favorite. Inspired by rhythmic gymnastics and robots, Schloss’ collection is fluid yet calculated: ergonomic mini skirts, blazers, leggings, tops, and dresses feature nostalgia-inducing CPU-like graphic patterns. Constructed out of technical fabrics, Schloss’ form-fitting garments reveal sophistication in their subtle detailing: ruching, low back constructions, and cut-outs make for a collection that is equally irreverent in spirit as it is elegant in execution. Admist discreet references to her Yeezy past, Schloss has truly established Maisie Wilen as a one-of-a-kind label to watch.
Swedish blogger, art director, and power couple Elin Kling and Karl Lindman founded their modern lifestyle brand Totême in 2014. Their womenswear offerings focus on luxurious essentials with an aesthetic drawn from European minimalism as well as classic American sportswear. As purveyors of casual luxury, Totême produces essential pieces of pristine quality, from tailored menswear-inspired pieces to structured blouses and dresses with meticulously cut asymmetric detailing.
A hoodie is the holy staple—Protection from the elements? A stand-in beanie? A pocket for your thoughts? An everyday necessity? Thank god we’ve got a selection that’s diverse enough to match all the different (and everlasting) reasons a hoodie is this season’s go-to.
Balenciaga Grey BB Hoodie
The classic grey hoodie now comes in Balenciaga.
Loewe Black Lord of the Flies Hoodie
Ever the champion of art and craft, J.W. Anderson lends his aesthetic inclinations to this Loewe hoodie—for pondering morality, the natural world, and the meaning of life itself, cozy up in this The Lord of the Flies offering.
Noah Navy Jolly Roger Hoodie
Historically meant to signify an impending attack, here Jolly Roger is benevolent—unless you’re planning on coming on strong with style.
Sacai White The Big Lebowski Hoodie
If you wish to lament the demise of what was once a great rug a la Dude from The Big Lebowski, Sacai has got you covered. An obscure reference translates to an expansive mind.
Helmut Lang Grey Painter Standard Hoodie
Sometimes luxury feels a little too polished—let loose with some splatters of paint, for the look of utilitarian leisure.
Eckhaus Latta Yellow Atmospheric Hoodie
You can’t really wear a Mondrian but you can get close. Opt for an earthier palette, with tones of mustard, cream, and black, for that geometric LA-feel only from Eckhaus Latta.
Gucci Black Cotton Chenille Hoodie
Gucci’s “House of Love” chenille hoodie is equal parts regal and comfortable, but if you can’t get down with love, you can forget about getting cozy. Sine Amore Nihil—without love, nothing.
Homme Plissé Issey Miyake brings a new aesthetic concept to menswear, blending visionary technology with stylistic innovation. The starting point of the diffusion line is Issey Miyake’s signature garment pleating technique, with sewn details added post-process to generate new architectural structures and ornamental flourishes. Anchored by three conceptual commitments: pleats, product, and present, Homme Plissé pieces intrigue and inspire, merging form and function in elevated union. Wrinkle-resistant, quick-drying lightweight fabrics ensure active, dynamic results, with pieces cutting complex-yet-organic forms. Imbued with a sense of flexible modernity and gender-transcending grace, tops, jackets, trousers, and accessories compliment the wearer while generating new possibilities.
A Guide to the Future and Next Season’s Product
Springtime brings a chance to start fresh, to simplify, to leave the boots, scarf, and mitts behind. Though this season, you’re more likely to hear about shedding microplastics—one piece of synthetic clothing can release 700,000 toxic fibers in a single wash—than shedding layers. While many of the SS20 trends are still referencing moments from the past, thankfully, the conversation around fashion’s environmental impact has changed in a big way. This means innovation. Designers are upcycling, fabrics are mutating, silhouettes are morphing. With the new decade comes a new frontier of trends. Time to get acquainted with the help of the SSENSE SS20 trend report, part two.
Victoria’s Secret Funeral
In 2019, heaven (or rather, hell?) gained another angel—Victoria's Secret angel, that is. The lingerie label finally canceled its annual winter "fashion" show after decades of seven-figure Fantasy Bras and declining sales, putting to rest its presentation of passé beauty standards, carbon copy casting, and, of course, those wings. Fortunately, VS is survived by SS20's preferred take on sexy: long latex gloves, hardware details, mesh tops worn without bras, and a better perspective. Rick Owens sent models down the runway in half-zipped jumpsuits and jackets worn as shirts. London-based Supriya Lele offered a collection of ultra-cinched silhouettes, strappy trench coats, and shorts in the form of loose-fitting green underwear. Ann Demeulemeester's girl appeared ready to dominate in high slit black mini skirts with exposed fishnet undergarments. This season, we're following the footsteps of Queen Rih—didn't they tell you that she was a Savage...x Fenty?
"It" bags for all! This season the handbag has been liberated. There is no one must have shape, color, or size, rather, anything goes. A Thom Browne crossbody bag shaped like a football? Why not? We saw even more sculptural bags, in the shape of baseball hats at JW Anderson, and hard wrecking balls with chain-link handles at Marine Serre. Rhude took the mini-purse trend to menswear with a literal cigarette carton bag. And we can’t forget the classic baguette bag, updated everywhere this season in fabrics from snake-print to patent leather. For SS20, grab hold to whatever catches your eye. The choice is yours at the bag buffet.
Princess Peach is that unattainable half-mushroom goddess who brings purpose to Mario’s eight-bit life. She is elusive, light on her feet, strong-willed, yet laughs easily. She’s also an absolute unsung style icon. Her puff-sleeved pink dress with ornate bodice and bustle, her jeweled crown, elegant white opera gloves, and occasional coordinating parasol. Peach is, of course, a damsel—in itself sartorially aspirational—but she also knows how to play dirty to beat Bowser. For SS20, we’re seeing Princess inspiration everywhere, from ruffles and rose-tinted palettes at CDG, GmbH, and Dior Homme, to bustle-inspired, nip-waisted silhouettes at Ashley Williams and Thom Browne. And while Molly Goddard and Simone Rocha have been about Princess styles from the start, for SS20, Peach is upping her reach.
Our relationship to color has been fickle at best—vacillating from bright and bold one season to cold and muted the next. If 2019 recipient of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, Christopher John Rogers, is any measure of what we’re feeling chromatically this season, it’s loud and proud color all the way. While structured, corporate silhouettes have been making a comeback in recent seasons, don’t be fooled into believing this means it’s all work and no fun. Quite the contrary—this year we’re channeling a more colorful character: Stanley Ipkiss, aka The Mask. Zany to a point that verges on irritation, Ipkiss might be obnoxious, but he bears an important message: it’s possible to find success while still never taking yourself too seriously. There’s usually very little return for white-knuckling control over your aesthetic self and body for the sake of the performative illusion of corporate competence, so why not loosen your tie and pick canary yellow or kelly green when choosing tomorrow’s suit. In 2020, having a personality is the epitome of professionalism.
All-aboard! SS20 is calling for a new take on nautical and you don’t want to miss the boat. Sperrys and shorts in the city exude total leisure as downtown meets starboard for a vibe that’s equally Yacht Club and brunch in Brooklyn. If you’re the type of person to go sockless in loafers, all-season your striped Polo swim shorts, and regularly debate a Noah bucket hat in the morning mirror—you’re primed for SS20’s sporty captain look. Consider the sailor-inspired “tar flap” collared shirts from Loewe, or Prada’s striped short-suits, reminiscent of the days when a bathing suit was a full fit.
This summer, fashion goes Dutch. Haystacks, the harvest, starry nights, sunflowers. Knitwear and evening wear that call to mind Van Gogh’s en plein air countryside tableaux. Straw hats, farmer details, thick brushstrokes, palettes that include pollen-yellow, pale green, browns and blues (and root vegetable neutrals). Consider Jacquemus’ entire oeuvre: the runway itself staged on a field, but also, the clothes. Simon Porte’s airy and exaggerated silhouettes, his straw carryalls and bucket hats, and sun-kissed palette that feel totally on brand (i.e totally hopeful, cheeky, unserious and merry). More painterly options include brands with a decidedly downtown cool like Collina Strada or Charlotte Knowles, whose body-conscious florals feel somehow fairytale and free: rich orange-yellows, gilded petal patterns, camo-horticulture, gold lips. Or Marine Serre’s macrame bags and botanic patchwork—only Marine Serre could add a raw edge to macrame and patchwork. There’s Palomo Spain’s scarecrow-inspired suiting and Nanushka’s fringe and fishnet details. And one cannot talk about poetic knits without mentioning Missoni or Stella McCartney’s careful application of rope and strappy heels. And of course Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe wonderland that—while not at all rustic—was so purely romantic with lacework and flared shapes in colors like wheat-y taupe signalling the outdoors and those long afternoons spent seeking patches of shade. But no other brand better captures Van Gogh’s post-impressionist influence like Christian Dior. Maria Grazia Chiuri sent models down the runway in artisanal interpretations of a Provencal farm. Meadow-y likeness was the mood with pasture-inspired haystack sundresses and slouchy decorative wildflower sweaters. This summer, the Dior profile calls to mind Van Gogh’s “A Woman Walking in a Garden." So: Van-go and get some fresh air.
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